Heating after capping for additional sterilization

marecki_urs

New member
Hi !
Do any of you brothers have experience with heating gear for additional sterilization after capping ? For example 15 min in 220 F ( +- 100 C) It is significantly below the melting point of most powders, It is also significantly below the boiling point of carrier oil's , cosolvents , preservants ..At the same time 100 C is the temperature at which most bacteria die, which reduces the probability of infection..
Of course, not all powders have such a melting point. What - for example, with test e, which has a point in 30 c will warming up will damage it ? At the same time - in the preparation ,according to recommendations, the solution reaches a temperature >= 100C (If we use for example a pan with water ..)
I will be very grateful for an answer.



<body id="cke_pastebin" style="position: absolute; top: 0px; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; left: -1000px;">100 C is the temperature at which most bacteria die, which reduces the probability of infection100 C is the temperature at which most bacteria die, which reduces the probability of infection100 C is the temperature at which most bacteria die, which reduces the probability of infectionDo any of you brothers have experience with heating for additional sterilization after capping</body>
 
You want garenteed sterilization buy sealed sterile vials and syring filter it in closed loop . Capping without a flow hood is what it is. Don't heat the gear afterward especially don't hold nandrolones or tren past 180 very long wash them in the dishwasher rinse in alcohol and oven bake alcohol dry from vial and stopper use gloves clean the room shut the AC vents and be as clean as possible . no way too be 100 percent capping in a UGL . like I said sealed sterile vials and filter the gear in.

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If you heat them once the tops are on them all of the tops will literally blow off and likely the bottles will tip over. Heating it again isn't going to sterilize it. Use 91 to 99% isopropyl alcohol and soak the bottles in them. Let them dry most of the way and have them already set up on a cookie sheet that is sterile but just the bottoms of the bottles will be touching it so its fine heat the empty bottles at 350 for 35 minutes. I forgot to mention to wash them in antibacterial soap first and rinse but make sure all soap out then put the IPA in. Have your stoppers clean and sterile and let your bottles cool until u can touch them in the oven then put a stopper on each one. Only remove the stopper to fill. No matter what some air is going to touch every part of the bottle. If you are working in a clean sterile environment you will be fine. I've done this for about 12 to 15 years and never had a single problem. But number one rule you cannot heat bottle that have a cap on them. The heat will vaporize the vs at a very low temp and the top and stopper will blow of the bottle like a rocket so I would advise against it. Its a bad idea. If you do the first steps right you won't have an issue. Do the same with glass media bottles but after filtering the gear is clean and the ba prevents the growth of new bacteria. I add my ba only when my solution is colingnandbis down to 60°C so it doesn't evaporate so basically you add it just before filtering. Most ppl make gear with ba and bb at the same time and have no problem but look up the temp ba evaporates and you will add ba right before filtering instead of cooking it in with it. But ahain ppl for years have cooked with ba and bb with no issues I am just OCD and won't add ba until I'm ready to filter but u still need to stir it in well.

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