First Brew

[Frontrunner]

Hey guys well i have everything i need to start my first brew. Going to do some test e, test p and tren a. I have purchased everything other then a pump for the filtration what would you suggest Hand pump or Electric Vacumm pump (I have Glass media bottles and millpore top filters) and what model would you suggest so i can find it online ?

When it comes to my first brew whats the max temp i should heat up the oil / raw solution before filtering ? Should i stay at each individual melting point (dont want to ruin the batch with too much heat ) ? and should i have both the Raw solution and the carrier oil at the same temp before mixing them together pre Filtration ?

Thanks for the help guys Love this forum

 

[Landmark.Raine]

As for filters, normally the filter of .22um is better than .45um. despite taking long time to filter. I recommend PTFE filter. Because it has the most inert material with a PP backing.
Some guys heat raws with 212F, but 150 F is a suitable temperature. As for such low melting point products such as test enan and deca, almost 120 F is enough.
You could mix the oil and raw powders well before filtering. However, you also could filter oil first, and keep the warm oil mixed solution with the same temperature. Because it could speed to filter the solution in your next steps.
Hope my suggestions could help you! Any further questions, welcome to shooting me. :bench:

 

[gymjunkie38]

Test E and tren Ace don't need any heat and never get tren Deca or NPP over 180 degrees
Test prop will take a bit of heat . get a candy fryer thermometer from Wal-Mart use it as your stirring rod boil water take it off the burner and swirl the beaker in the hot water watch temperature on the thermometer . and make sure you get the boriscilate glass beakers of there the cheap glass the heat will bust them and well if there is 50 grams of tren in it when it bust that will suck

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[Frontrunner]

As for filters, normally the filter of .22um is better than .45um. despite taking long time to filter. I recommend PTFE filter. Because it has the most inert material with a PP backing.
Some guys heat raws with 212F, but 150 F is a suitable temperature. As for such low melting point products such as test enan and deca, almost 120 F is enough.
You could mix the oil and raw powders well before filtering. However, you also could filter oil first, and keep the warm oil mixed solution with the same temperature. Because it could speed to filter the solution in your next steps.
Hope my suggestions could help you! Any further questions, welcome to shooting me. :bench:

Test E and tren Ace don't need any heat and never get tren Deca or NPP over 180 degrees
Test prop will take a bit of heat . get a candy fryer thermometer from Wal-Mart use it as your stirring rod boil water take it off the burner and swirl the beaker in the hot water watch temperature on the thermometer . and make sure you get the boriscilate glass beakers of there the cheap glass the heat will bust them and well if there is 50 grams of tren in it when it bust that will suck

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Thank you both for the replys! What do you guys suggest for the pump side of the filtration ? should i go with a hand pump or do you guys know of a cheap electric vacumm pump ?

 

[falcon]

I have been making AAS for the past 8 years and have quite a bit of experience in this. Gymjunkie38 is correct in so far as not needing any heat for disolving the raws. In fact, I have never used heat in any of the raws that I have produced. Simple method is to add the amount of AAS powder to the mixing jar and then add the BA and BB, place the jar in a place where it will be undisturbed for at least 12 hours (preferably overnight) such as the oven (not turned on). This process, although there is no heat from the oven, keeps the temperature at an even temperature. The powders should be disolved over night in the solution of BA/BB. If not, give the jar a shake and place back in to the oven for a further hour or so and it should then definitely be disolved. By heating AAS raws, you are liable to damage the structures and lesson their potency.

Test E and tren Ace don't need any heat and never get tren Deca or NPP over 180 degrees
Test prop will take a bit of heat . get a candy fryer thermometer from Wal-Mart use it as your stirring rod boil water take it off the burner and swirl the beaker in the hot water watch temperature on the thermometer . and make sure you get the boriscilate glass beakers of there the cheap glass the heat will bust them and well if there is 50 grams of tren in it when it bust that will suck

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[Frontrunner]

I have been making AAS for the past 8 years and have quite a bit of experience in this. Gymjunkie38 is correct in so far as not needing any heat for disolving the raws. In fact, I have never used heat in any of the raws that I have produced. Simple method is to add the amount of AAS powder to the mixing jar and then add the BA and BB, place the jar in a place where it will be undisturbed for at least 12 hours (preferably overnight) such as the oven (not turned on). This process, although there is no heat from the oven, keeps the temperature at an even temperature. The powders should be disolved over night in the solution of BA/BB. If not, give the jar a shake and place back in to the oven for a further hour or so and it should then definitely be disolved. By heating AAS raws, you are liable to damage the structures and lesson their potency.

hey bro thanks for the info I really appreciate the help. I'm more curious about adding heat to filter because I herd filtering can be a real pain and if you heat it up it filters a lot easier. What's your thoughts on this? And if you don't use heat to filter then what is your normal filtering process and psi you keep on your vacumm ?

 

[Landmark.Raine]

Thank you both for the replys! What do you guys suggest for the pump side of the filtration ? should i go with a hand pump or do you guys know of a cheap electric vacumm pump ?

How much of your filtration pump? And we often select the pump based on the quantity of raws you will filter.

 

[Macho313]

Hey guys well i have everything i need to start my first brew. Going to do some test e, test p and tren a. I have purchased everything other then a pump for the filtration what would you suggest Hand pump or Electric Vacumm pump (I have Glass media bottles and millpore top filters) and what model would you suggest so i can find it online ?

When it comes to my first brew whats the max temp i should heat up the oil / raw solution before filtering ? Should i stay at each individual melting point (dont want to ruin the batch with too much heat [emoji14] ) ? and should i have both the Raw solution and the carrier oil at the same temp before mixing them together pre Filtration ?

Thanks for the help guys Love this forum

What's up brother if your not going to be filtering thousands of ml's at a time then I would go with a break bleeder hand pump. You can get a cheep one for about $20 at harbor freight or order a nice one on Amazon for I think $35. Millapore is a nice unit but if you can't run 500ml or more through it in 30min,the you should try the nalgene rapid flow bottle top filters..you can easily get over 750ml through one in 30 minutes... I know the millapore is a decent filter but don't try to save $5-$10 and get something like a fox autofill even if it has a PVDF filter membrane,my buddie did that last time being cheep,and it took him about a hour and 20 minutes to filter 400ml,and it was a 500ml unit.. you can run 500ml through a 250ml nalgene rapid flow or 1000ml through a 500ml unit it 20 minutes.. when you get a chance to YouTube the nalgene rapid flow, and you will see how the oil drips down through out the whole 90mm of the filter making the a lot faster and durable,while other filters will only pull the oils through about a 1 inch circle in the middle of the filter making it slower,and most importantly making it wear out way before they should. Let me know if the millapore drips down through out the whole diameter of the filter of jyst the middle because I was thinking about trying one. Also I'll post a picture of the good hand pump you can get at Amazon. Good luck brother, and let me know if you have any questions or how things go in your first batch. Also what do you have planned to transfer whatever you filter to 10ml glass vials?

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[Macho313]

Here is the nice hand pump from Amazon..

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[Frontrunner]

What's up brother if your not going to be filtering thousands of ml's at a time then I would go with a break bleeder hand pump. You can get a cheep one for about $20 at harbor freight or order a nice one on Amazon for I think $35. Millapore is a nice unit but if you can't run 500ml or more through it in 30min,the you should try the nalgene rapid flow bottle top filters..you can easily get over 750ml through one in 30 minutes... I know the millapore is a decent filter but don't try to save $5-$10 and get something like a fox autofill even if it has a PVDF filter membrane,my buddie did that last time being cheep,and it took him about a hour and 20 minutes to filter 400ml,and it was a 500ml unit.. you can run 500ml through a 250ml nalgene rapid flow or 1000ml through a 500ml unit it 20 minutes.. when you get a chance to YouTube the nalgene rapid flow, and you will see how the oil drips down through out the whole 90mm of the filter making the a lot faster and durable,while other filters will only pull the oils through about a 1 inch circle in the middle of the filter making it slower,and most importantly making it wear out way before they should. Let me know if the millapore drips down through out the whole diameter of the filter of jyst the middle because I was thinking about trying one. Also I'll post a picture of the good hand pump you can get at Amazon. Good luck brother, and let me know if you have any questions or how things go in your first batch. Also what do you have planned to transfer whatever you filter to 10ml glass vials?

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Hey bro thanks for talking the time to help me out here im going to order a hand pump off amazon today. I havent done my first batch yet because i've been doing a lot of research on making sure my media bottle is sterilized and when i end up transfering to 10ml vials that i get those 100% sterile aswell. I took a look at that filter you were talking about and it seems to flow amazing i have 5 pre-Sterile top filters (the millpores) so after i use these i will be sure to trying out the ones you were talking about!

 

[Frontrunner]

would this one be fine ? https://www.amazon.ca/VACUUM-BRAKE-...d=1499819902&sr=8-1&keywords=hand+vacuum+pump

 

[Macho313]

Hey bro thanks for talking the time to help me out here im going to order a hand pump off amazon today. I havent done my first batch yet because i've been doing a lot of research on making sure my media bottle is sterilized and when i end up transfering to 10ml vials that i get those 100% sterile aswell. I took a look at that filter you were talking about and it seems to flow amazing i have 5 pre-Sterile top filters (the millpores) so after i use these i will be sure to trying out the ones you were talking about!

No problem brother that's what we're here for. I'll tell you this though some people can really over-exaggerate the sterilization process will take it too far as long as you clean it then give it a bath and 70% or more isopropyl alcohol wait for it to dry and put it in the oven at 350 degrees when the oven is done don't pull it out right away or it will sweat same with the vials. Just opened the oven door then turn oven off and let it cool down a little bit before you pull it out usually about 15 maybe 20 minutes. If you want shoot me a PM..

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